Pattern Testing: Charlie Caftan

The Charlie Caftan was just released by Heather at Closet Case Patterns and I’m excited to finally be able to share my version! I love pattern testing but it’s always hard to keep mum….and I’ve been wearing this a ton since I made it. It’s my new favorite beach/pool cover-up. Plus it’s so easy to dress up by adding a slip on underneath and adding on some jewelry. Love the styling on the pattern cover and on the lookout for some strappy espadrilles now!

I made my Charlie Caftan out of an organic cotton voile from Organic Cottons Plus that I bought on sale. I’d been eying this geometric print for a while but wasn’t sure what I could make with a sheer bold print. This maxi fits the bill to a T. Plus it doesn’t use up a ton of yardage either. The voile is slightly sheer and beautifully lightweight. Perfect beach wear!

All the Details:

Fabric-

Voile-45″ Red Star, Organic Cottons Plus, 4 yards

44-45 inches, 2 oz . Red multi print of 100% organic cotton printed with low impact dyes made in Pakistan.

Pattern-

*Please note I made the TESTER VERSION. Changes to the pattern after testing feedback include:

Added a second arm opening an inch or so above the first for more coverage.
Lowered the bust panel about an inch so it’s not hitting at an empire height.

Charlie Caftan by Closet Case Patterns

Size 10 View C maxi Dress.

My Measurements: 36/29/39 vs Size 10 CCP: 36.5/29.5/38.5 Height:5’7″

From my Review:

The fit on this dress is spot on. The neckline and back sit perfectly with no gaping. Length to the ankles with no adjustments. I love the fit at the neckline and the clean finish offered by the neckline facing. It sits nice and snug. The slits on the side make it really practical as I can walk and move easily, as well as being so elegant. I accidentally cut my front in two pieces but matched it back up and altered the front panels to match. Consequently I have a tiny bit less gathering at CF. I love the kimono sleeve and central panel design.

I don’t usually make high-waisted garments. After having kids the last thing I want to wear is anything resembling maternity wear. I was pleasantly surprised with how flattering this is since it’s not my usual silhouette. That said I’m looking forward to making the revised version now that waist has been lowered. It’s really a perfect beach cover-up! Looking forward to trying out the shorter version with pleats too! So chic.

Happy Summer Sewing!

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Organic White Denim Morgan Jeans

Here’s my latest make for my work wardrobe, a pair of organic white denim Morgan jeans. My most professional looking pair of jeans yet! I just love the fit and finish! Plus it’s my second completed project for my #2017MakeNine! I’m working on projects #3 and #4: the Vogue shorts and Odgen Cami below. Planning out my makes for this Instagram challenge is such great motivation!

P.S.-I didn’t make the shirt⇑ in these pics-it’s RTW from my work.

I wanted a simple pair of jeans that would be work appropriate. I was inspired by a menswear jean we carry at Club Monaco. Super simple straight leg with minimal detail and silver accents. I’ve admired this jean pattern for quite awhile- I LOVE Button fly jeans! – but finding a nice organic denim took some time to find. I prefer a structured denim with no stretch since I think they last so much longer. I bought the denim from Organic Cottons Plus and it’s a dream to work with. It’s a nice sturdy weight at 11oz but not to thick for stitching the seams. I used the button fly jean supply kit in silver from Closet Case Patterns too.

All the Details:

Pattern-

Morgan Boyfriend Jeans, Closet Case Patterns size 10.

slim boyfriend jeans featuring a mid-rise, traditional five pocket construction, contoured waistband, tapered leg and button fly.

Fabric + Supplies-

Organic White Denim from Organic Cottons Plus

60 inches W, 11 oz., 100% Organic Cotton lightened to white with GOTS-approved hydrogen peroxide. Made in India.

Button Fly Kit (I chose nickel)

8 x rivets
2 x 17mm jeans button
5 x 15mm “button fly” buttons
2 x Schmetz jeans needles ( I love that this kit had the jeans needles too-One less trip to the store!)

White Organic All Purpose Thread (leftover from a past project)

Construction:

I made very few changes to this pattern which was a lovely change from most jean patterns I’ve used before. You can see my past jeans here and here. I compared the fit to my sloper and then slightly scooped out the back and then took a 1″ wedge out of the back yoke which I’ll increase a bit on my next pair. The fit is fantastic! The only thing I may alter next time is to raise the waist on these since I do like my jeans closer to my natural waistline. I think I’ll always have a tiny tummy after having the kiddos (unless I start hitting the gym which I just can’t see happening any time soon!) so a higher waist is much more comfortable for me.

This pattern has the best instructions by far for sewing jeans! I found the fly insertion so easy. And I love the pockets (same idea as the one’s in The Carolyn PJ’s). Every time I make jeans I get a bit better and this make has my best fit and finish by far. I’ll tell you my new trick for denim: I keep my hem extra long and unfinished (serged but not stitched) for at least a few washings before hemming. My jeans always shrink in length (sometimes after a few months!) My last jeans I had to remove the hem and add a binding to keep the length. So this pair had an extra 2″ to start which is now perfect.

I’ve been wearing these to work quite a bit, especially with my Club Monaco Rylie shirt in a light indigo lyocell you see in the pictures. I made the jeans specifically to wear with this shirt! I’ve also started making more bags. Prior to this I’ve mostly just made backpacks for my son so I’m trying to increase my skills and repertoire.

The Navy floral backpack was made with the remnants of the fabric from my Carolyn PJ’s (it was also used as my pocket linings on these jeans) and wool for the straps is from my Tweed Skirt. The Wax Stripe Bag was made out of the leftovers from my Rue Dress muslin. I had some fit issues with that dress(now resolved I just need to order fabric) and hated to waste the fabric. I had to piece it together a bit but I love how it looks as a bag. It was a bit much for a full dress. The Floral Bag was made with McCalls M6410 View C Minus the extra pockets and zipper and The Stripe Bag was made using M6579 view D, a Nancy Zieman 30 minute pattern. Both were quick sews. Plus now I have lots more bag options! I’m working on the projects in The Better Bag Maker by Nicole Mallalieu too.

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I’ve just finished up all my Disney makes for Ami! You can see my sketches on Instagram. She now has a beautiful Elena dress plus skirted shorts and tees for Cinderella and Snow White. If I have time I’ll make her a Jasmine swim rashy set. I had such fun designing and sewing them up that I’m making myself some Disney Bound looks too! I feel like every few months I get totally motivated to sew and just go full speed. The past month has seen me sewing every chance I get. Can’t wait to share more! Happy sewing!

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Bare Necessities Carolyn Pajama’s

When I found this print I new I had to have it! This Bare Necessities organic poplin is in my favorite colors: navy, coral, peach and orange and reminds me of a modern William Morris floral. Just like the image that inspired the embroidery on my denim jeans! While this bold print is a bit too much for everyday wear it’s perfect for a new set of Carolyn Pajama’s!

Plus it’s my first finished make in my #2017MakeNine!

I’m to the point now where my work wardrobe is pretty well fleshed out for the rest of this season so it’s back to filling in holes in my me-made wardrobe. One thing I really needed was more pretty pajama’s. I have some very pretty Fifi sets as well as my first floral Carolyn PJ set, but both are definitely summer wear. So for this set of PJ’s I wanted something with a bit more structure and coverage for wearing around the house in our FL winter and spring. This set does just that and I’ve been wearing it constantly since they were finished!

Fabric:

Bare Necessities Organic Cotton Poplin

45″ 3.6oz (4 yards)

Pattern:

Carolyn Pajama’s, Closet Case Patterns

View C , Size 10

Construction:

I made this pair in a sturdier crisp cotton with added orange piping to highlight the vines in the background and bright orange buttons. I cut these in a size 10 (my usual size for Closet Case Patterns). One of my fav things about using Closet Case patterns is that they really do fit me perfectly. I rarely need to make any alterations. I sewed these up quite quickly since I had already made a pair before. I love the pocket construction with the fold over angled pocket and the interior finish of this pattern. I used French seams everywhere I was able which makes these pretty inside and out.

These are so comfortable! It’s so nice having lovely things to wear around the house. I need a few more sets so I have something nice to wear all the time. Especially since I tend to put on pj’s the moment I’m done with picking up the kids after school. An elegant dressing gown and a new robe are next on my list!

Right now I’m busy working on outfits for our upcoming trip to Disney World this April. I’m making Ami the cutest little everyday princess outfits! I can’t wait to share them all. I finished up her Snow White tee and skirt and am working on a Cinderella tee and skirted leggings now, + an Elena Dress is in the works. I got just enough fabric that I’m making myself some coordinating looks too! Stay tuned!

and I almost forgot…Happy Valentine’s Day! I’ll be whipping up a delicious meal tonight for my family with a decadent chocolate dessert! Can’t wait!

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#2017MakeNine + Top 5 Reflections/Goals

Happy New Year Everyone! I’ve been thoroughly enjoying the winter break with the kiddos and the long weekend with my husband. The weather has been beautiful so we spent quite a few days beachside-perfect way to start out the year! Here’s my last TOP 5: My Reflections + Goals plus my #2017MakeNine!

Reflections:

It’s been a busy year! I made 31 pieces for me plus countless more for the kids!
Moving is not conductive to getting anything done! I really missed using natural dyes and being able to get messy!
My closet is almost full! I really need very few pieces now. If I hadn’t gone back to work I doubt I would need any at all.
This year was full of so many changes: We moved, the kids are both in school and I’m back to work. Looking forward to a more relaxed pace this year. Fingers crossed!
My style changed drastically as I entered this new phase. My wardrobe has changed considerably and is still a bit disordered. Hoping for clearer vision in the new year.

Goals:

My goal for this year is to live a beautiful life. I want to enjoy my time with the kids and husband and surround myself with beauty.
I want to make fewer pieces and instead focus on the details.
I’m still unsure what I want to do with my life at this point..so clarity would be wonderful!
Find something fulfilling career wise until I can start my own business. As much as I’d love to start now the logistics of a small apartment, renting and financial constraints makes it less than ideal. I really need to focus on saving for a house and having a nest egg to start out.
I’ve been feeling less inspired by blogging lately. It’s always so time consuming even writing a simple post when I’d rather be sewing. I do love sharing what I make though. I’m going to try for bi-weekly posts for a bit.

I have a few pieces I really need to fill out my wardrobe so I’m going to participate in Rochelle’s 2017 Make Nine! Here’s mine:

#2017MakeNine

Marilyn Dress, Style Arc
Anne Klein Vogue V1509 Tunic + Pants
Vogue Basic Design Jacket V7975
Koos Van Den Akker V1493
Morgan Jeans, Closet Case Files (just bought my hardware!)
Vogue Shorts V9008 (to buy)
Carolyn PJ’s (make a second set for cooler weather)
Ogden Cami, True Bias (to buy)
Kelly Anourak, Closet Case Files (I made a tester version so on to the real thing!)

I tried to keep this simple with things I really need and know I’ll actually make! It’s a mix of season’s to take me through the year. Some for work(like the Marilyn dress, white jeans, Anne Klein tunic in silk with crepe pants and a Chanel style jacket), some practical( new pj’s, a (FL)winter jacket, a basic cami and shorts) and one just for fun(the Koos jacket!) I’ve noticed I don’t enjoy sewing knits as much as wovens so I’ve been buying lovely knit tops from work and spending my time sewing what’s fun!

You can see more on my Instagram page! I’m sharing on there more regularly than other social media lately! Happy Sewing!

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Fall 2016 Sewing Plans

The weather here is slowly changing from our excessive summer heat to lots of rainy-and slightly cooler-days. Summer is slowly drawing to a close. Time for my Fall 2016 Sewing Plans!

I think what I miss most about living up north is real fall clothes. It gets cooler here in Florida but not so much that I need to layer or wear much heavier garments. My nod to fall tends to be in my color choices. My wardrobe is probably about 80% year round wear so I don’t really require many new makes this season. I still have a few patterns waiting in my queue that I really want to sew so I thought I’d share those with you today.

My Sewing Pattern Queue:

Morgan Jeans– I was gifted this pattern after testing for Sophie and can’t wait to give it a try. I’m planning on making this up in a white denim. I’m on the lookout for a nice organic denim to make these in with silver accents. I love sewing pants!
Retro Butterick dress– I’ve had this pattern for ages and wasn’t really sure I’d make it until I saw Mode de Lis’ version. So beautiful! I love how she modified the pattern.
Rue– I bought this pattern as soon as I got the chance during the pre-release! I’m so excited that Colette is heading back to its vintage roots. I can see this style becoming a tried and true look for me. I love the bodice detail!
Koos Couture Jacket– I think the sleeves and embroidered details shown on the cover are just gorgeous! I’m envisioning indigo dyeing and some sashiko stitching for this one. I’m trying to shift my focus to more detailed projects this season.
Granville Blouse– I’ve already made up two more of these! One is in a peach and cream stripe that I refashioned from a (maternity) Regency Dress I made a few years ago and the other is in a lightweight Crème de la Crème cotton from Marcy Tilton. This second shirt isn’t quite finished as I’m going to add some sashiko embroidery (in white to keep it subtle) to the back yoke now that it’s sewn.

Thrifted Fabric:

Now that both kiddos are in school I’m formulating business plans so my sewing for myself is going to be slowing down this year. Luckily I’m at a perfect point for this because my wardrobe is now really well curated and almost entirely handmade.

Saving up a nest egg to start out my handmade clothing line is my big priority right now so I’ve been focusing on finding vintage and recycled fabric to work with for myself and the kids(and maybe for my business too). It’s amazing how much selection you can find. I tend to shop at thrift stores looking for actual fabric, sheets and XL dresses(most of what you see above).

Inspiration Board:

2016 Sewing Inspiration- Pinterest

Back next week with a fabulous wrap dress in dragons breath green organic knit (from Marcy Tilton) using Vogue V1489 (Donna Karan)! So elegant but super comfy! I’m so happy I picked up a bunch of these DK patterns while they were still available. Happy Sewing!

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Purple Sophie Tankini Swimsuit

Another summer day, another Sophie Swimsuit! This is actually suit #3, this time as a tankini. Check out my Paisley Sophie Bikini too. My first tester suit (a one piece) was in this same fabric but the fit was off. After the pattern was fixed and finalized I went back and made it up again.

This go around the fit is fabulous!

My mom took this photo when she and my dad and my niece and nephew were in town visiting us. We had a blast while they were in town. Beach with the kids, lots of great restaurants (the kids can’t wait to go back to Beach Bunnies on A1A) and even a mermaid show! My parents were staying at the B Ocean Resort and the kids were super excited to go to the Wreck Bar (in the hotel) to see the underwater mermaid show. I don’t know how they keep their hair and makeup so perfect in the pool. It was really awesome!

Ft. Lauderdale beaches are so gorgeous! And this day the water was crystal clear and calm. I think that’s what I like best over on this coast. It’s so changeable. You can get full surf with big waves or crystal clear and flat. I love living in FL! In less than 30 minutes we can be beachside any day of the week, year-round!

All the Details:

Fabric:

Michael Levine, Italian Swimwear, Purple Crosshatch, Out of Stock

This fabric has a printed texture and is a bit water repellant. It’s really pretty but I don’t love how the texture feels. A bit rough and not as comfortable as other swim fabric. The suit is fully lined in a mix of leftover swim fabric so it’s not as noticeable.

Pattern:

Top: Sophie Swimsuit, Closet Case Files

View A altered to a Tankini.
Halter Tie Straps (View B)
Size 8 graded to a 10 at Waist
Cup 4, Wire:36 (This size is actually for a 38 wire which I didn’t have on hand. But the cup fits great)

Bottoms: Self drafted Bikini Bottoms

I’ve modified this pattern over the last year so it’s now my go to. Fits perfectly with the coverage I prefer.

For this version I drew a line on the one piece pattern at 14″ down from the center bridge and then curved my line around all the pattern pieces by laying them next to each other. My suit has a 1/2″ hem turned twice. The suit is lined in leftover swim fabric from my daughter’s last suit- butterflies and fuschia.

I really like the fit of these cups. They’re a really natural shape, modest yet still very va-va-voom! I think I do need to go up a wire size to the 38 my sizing calls for though. I used my 36 wires that I had on hand. My bust has changed quite a bit since my youngest weaned a few months ago, so fit has been trickier. I was up to a 36E at one point and usually wear a 36B now. It’s so nice being back to my smaller size.

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I went with the halter strap from the bikini (View B) and love it! I really like the shape a halter gives me and it’s nice how adjustable it is.

You may notice I have a few wrinkles across the body of the suit. This fabric doesn’t have as much stretch as my other version so I probably could have sized up a bit. I also had widened the bridge on my pattern, like I need to do with my bras. I thought it might help with fit but it wasn’t needed so I narrowed them back to the original.

The bottoms are my go to self drafted bikini. The leg hits just where I like and has plenty of bum coverage. Easy two piece pattern. I do have a pair of Sophie bottoms too. When my tester version was too small in the body I separated it so I could still have the bottoms. I like that I can mix and match these.

The whole suit was worked first on my serger and finished with the coverstitch machine which gives a nice professional finish. Because the fit was a bit tighter my seams pulled a bit more which made them a bit more visible. I really like the effect. Next time I may do a coverstitch down the seams to show them off more.

This suit is really fantastic. Really beautiful and elegant but still lots of support. It’s held up at the beach, the pool and playing with my kiddos!

Happy Summer!