Claire Shaeffer Couture Jacket- Part 1,Toile
I’ve just started on my Claire Shaeffer Custom Couture Collection Jacket from Vogue Patterns, V8621. This is my first challenge to myself for the New Year! The pattern gives wonderful couture hand sewn instructions and the jacket itself features:
- Keyhole Neckline
- Waist Seam
- Bound Buttonholes
- Welt Pockets
- Raglan kimono sleeve
According to the instructions I measured at a 14, I wear a 6 in RTW clothing. When I looked at the amount of ease in the pattern I knew I’d need to go much smaller. I often have this problem with Vogue patterns as the size is often too large, with ridiculous amounts of ease included. I went with Nancy Zieman’s fitting advice from Pattern Fitting with Confidence (I borrowed it on my kindle) to measure from just over the bust, armpit to armpit to find my true size. My measurement was 13″ which is equivalent to a size 10, so that is the size I cut. Worked like a charm. I made my toile out of muslin and transferred all the pattern info to the muslin so I can use it as my pattern. The only thing I needed to adjust was taking in the shoulder seam slightly and I’ll be adding a bit to the label, maybe 1/2″.
So far so good. Now I need to order fabric, I really thought the fitting would take me longer, but I’m usually a pretty typical size. The fabrics I’m thinking about are Corn Maiden, a naturally grown Romanian Hemp in a bird track pattern for the main body and either using a Natural Hemp Silk Charmeuse and dyeing it myself or splurging on this beautiful Garnet Peace Silk for the interior. Still trying to decide how much I want to spend making this jacket!
Here are swatches of the fabrics:
I’d love some feedback, let me know what you think!