Everything Denim

Today I’m excited to share one of my absolute favorite fabrics—denim! Denim is such a versatile, durable fabric. I’m sharing some of my favorite tips and tricks for working with this fabric. I’ve just finished sewing up two amazing pieces using natural and turquoise denim. Be sure to watch the video that accompanies this post to see my new makes!

Recent Projects:

This season, I was excited to work with some beautiful non stretch denims—in a natural and turquoise colorway. They’re both striking and offer a fresh take on the classic style. I used the California Jeans by Atelier Scammit for both sets- what a fantastic pattern!.

Upcycled Midweight 10.5 oz Denim – Cream

Core Fabrics

• Width 61in / 155cm 

• Weight 350 gsm / 10.5 oz/yd² 

• Fiber 100% Recycled Cotton 

• Non-stretch 

• Completely Opaque 

• Country of Origin Guatemala 

13.7 oz Japanese Selvedge Non-Stretch Denim Deadstock – Turquoise, 3 Yds

Core Fabrics 

This deadstock denim brings a pop of color to traditional jeans-making and is ideal for crafting high-quality, structured pieces. Japanese selvedge is known for its durability and high-quality weave, making it a favorite among denim enthusiasts. The weight and non-stretch nature provide the perfect structure for jeans, jackets, and other garments that require a more substantial fabric. 

Sewing Tips, Tricks, and Inspiration: 

Now, if you’re thinking about sewing with denim, here are a few tips that I swear by. First, always pre-wash your fabric! Denim shrinks, so you want to make sure it’s fully pre-shrunk before you cut into it. Second, use the right tools. Denim is often heavy and can be tough on your needles and machine, so you’ll want to use a sturdy needle—size 90/14 or 100/16—and sturdy thread, especially for topstitching. And don’t forget to grade your seams to reduce bulk, especially around areas like pockets and waistbands. Lastly, pressing is key! Keep that steam iron going, and use a clapper to get those sharp, crisp seams that really make your projects look professional.

When sewing with denim I focus on getting crisp, clean seams with a lot of attention to detail in the topstitching. I use a size 90/14 denim needle and topstitching thread for a professional finish. One of the key steps is pressing as you go. It’s really important with denim to press your seams open as you sew—this helps create sharp, neat seams and gives the garment a more polished look. And my secret weapon for those bulky areas: a mallet and a hump jumper! These tools really help when sewing through multiple layers of thick fabric, like the waistband or hem.

Sewing with Denim: Essential Tools and Notions 

• Hump Jumper: Helps navigate thick seams and ensures even stitching when sewing bulky areas like jeans hems. 
• Denim Needles (Size 90/14 or 100/16): Essential for sewing through multiple layers of heavy fabric without breaking. 
• Topstitching Thread : Adds a professional touch to seams and pockets, especially on jeans and jackets. Alternatively, double up your regular thread.
• Seam Ripper: Necessary for unpicking heavy seams without damaging the fabric.
• Tweezers:  Great for threading your needle, turning corners and helping to work your project through the machine.
• Thread Gloss/Wax: Makes threading your needle with topstitching thread a bit easier.

Showcasing My Handmade Pieces  

Now, let’s take a look at some of my favorite pieces I’ve made over the years. I’m linking to the full blog posts below if you want to read more about each project. 

Copper Knit Tee and Butterick Denim Trousers: These trousers are a staple in my fall/winter wardrobe. I paired them with a copper knit tee, and I love how the rich tones complement the deep indigo. 

1940s Haslam Skirt: This skirt is a refashion project using cream-colored, upcycled denim, featuring some fun embroidered thorn pockets that add a unique twist.

Railroad Self-Drafted Trousers: These self-drafted trousers are so comfortable and classic. The railroad stripes add a nice bit of interest.

Morgan Jeans: These jeans, made from organic white denim, are one of my favorites for a clean, fresh look. The classic button-fly adds a vintage touch.

Indigo-Dyed Jeans: These jeans were a labor of love, especially with the hand-dyed indigo finish that gives them such a unique, personal feel.These are one of my earliest makes and I still wear them every winter.

Here are a few of my past blog posts:

Jean and Denim Sewing Patterns

• Closet Core Patterns – Ginger Jeans A modern and flattering jeans pattern featuring a high-rise skinny fit or mid-rise stovepipe fit. The pattern includes options for pocket stays, a zip fly, or a button fly, making it a versatile choice for various denim weights and styles. 
• Closet Core Patterns – Morgan Jeans A classic, mid-rise, non-stretch jeans pattern that is perfect for rigid denim. The Morgan Jeans offer a vintage-inspired boyfriend fit with a button fly and straight leg, making them an excellent choice for those working with organic or raw denim. 
• Megan Nielsen – Dawn Jeans The Dawn Jeans pattern provides several variations, including tapered, straight, wide-leg, and shorts options. It’s designed for non-stretch denim and includes classic jeans features like a zip or button fly, multiple pocket options, and belt loops. 
• Jalie Patterns – Éléonore Pull-On Jeans These pull-on jeans are designed for stretch denim or stretch twill. With a comfortable elastic waistband and a slim fit through the legs, they offer a modern, streamlined look without the need for a zipper fly. 
• Itch to Stitch – Liana Stretch Jeans The Liana Stretch Jeans are a mid-rise skinny jean pattern designed for stretch denim. They offer three different options for leg shape (skinny, straight, and bootcut) and include detailed instructions for achieving a professional-looking finish. 
• True Bias – Lander Pants and Shorts Although not strictly a jeans pattern, the Lander Pants work beautifully with denim. With a high-waist, wide-leg design, and button-fly closure, these pants are great for medium to heavyweight denim and provide a more vintage-inspired look. 
• Named Clothing – Jamie Jeans A classic skinny jeans pattern with a modern twist. The Jamie Jeans feature interesting seam details on the front legs and a back yoke that offers a great fit. This pattern works well with both stretch and rigid denim. 
• Tilly and the Buttons – Ness Skirt For those looking to sew a denim skirt, the Ness Skirt pattern is a fantastic option. Designed for woven fabrics like denim, it offers a classic A-line or mini skirt shape with details like a fly front, curved waistband, and back yoke. 
• Wardrobe By Me – Men’s or Women’s Jeans Patterns Wardrobe By Me offers both men’s and women’s jeans patterns, such as the “Men’s Rebel Straight Fit Jeans” and “Women’s 5-Pocket Jeans.” These patterns cater to different fits and styles, perfect for creating classic denim jeans for everyone. 
• Thread Theory – Fulford Jeans The Fulford Jeans by Thread Theory are a classic straight-leg jeans pattern designed for men, though they can be easily adapted for any gender. Featuring a mid-rise waist and a roomy fit through the thighs and legs, the pattern is perfect for non-stretch denim. It includes all the traditional jeans details like a zipper fly, belt loops, back yoke, and multiple pocket options. With Thread Theory’s signature focus on high-quality construction and tailored finishes, the Fulford Jeans are an excellent choice for those looking to create durable and timeless pieces. 
• Pauline Alice – Port Trousers While not a jeans pattern per se, the Port Trousers have a vintage sailor-inspired high-waist and wide-leg design, ideal for medium-weight denim. The pattern also includes options for front button closures and sailor-style details. 
• Seamwork – Audrey Jean Jacket For a denim jacket project, the Audrey Jean Jacket pattern is a timeless choice. It features all the classic details you’d expect in a jean jacket, like button plackets, front pockets, and adjustable back tabs. 
• Atelier Scammit – California Jean The California Jean by Atelier Scammit is a stylish, modern jeans pattern with a high-waisted fit and tapered leg. This pattern is designed for selvedge denim or other rigid, non-stretch denims and includes a button-fly closure, front and back pockets, and detailed topstitching options. It’s perfect for those looking to create a polished, ready-to-wear look. 
• Anna Allen – Helene Selvedge Jeans The Helene Selvedge Jeans by Anna Allen offer a classic, vintage-inspired fit with a high-rise waist and straight legs. Designed specifically for selvedge denim, this pattern includes unique features like a hidden button-fly and minimal seams to showcase the selvedge edge. It’s a great choice for denim enthusiasts looking to work with high-quality fabrics and create a timeless pair of jeans. 
• Helen’s Closet – Yanta Overalls While not a traditional jean pattern, the Yanta Overalls by Helen’s Closet are a fantastic option for denim. They offer a relaxed fit with wide legs and adjustable straps, making them a versatile choice for light to medium-weight denim fabrics. Paired with Helen’s extensive fitting and sewing guides on her blog, this pattern is accessible to both beginners and experienced sewists. 
• Style Arc – Stacie Jean Jacket The Stacie Jean Jacket from Style Arc is a modern take on the classic jacket. With its flattering fit, front button closure, and multiple pocket options, this pattern allows sewists to create a stylish layering piece that works with any wardrobe. It’s designed for stretch denim or woven fabrics with some structure, making it perfect for lightweight or mid-weight denim. 
• Cashmerette – Ames Jeans The Ames Jeans by Cashmerette are specifically designed for curvy figures, featuring multiple fit options based on hip and thigh shape. The pattern includes two styles: skinny leg and straight leg, with options for both stretch and non-stretch denim. It’s a fantastic choice for creating comfortable, flattering jeans tailored to your body shape. 

Tips for Beginners 

If you’re new to sewing with denim, start with simpler projects like skirts or bags before moving on to more complex garments like jeans. This will help you get a feel for the fabric and learn how to handle its weight and bulk.

Favorite Denim Sewing Resources 

I’ve learned so much from a couple of incredible teachers that I wanted to share with you all. If you’re interested in sewing your own denim pieces, these resources are must-haves.

• Angela Wolf’s Craftsy Class – Sewing Designer Jeans: Angela’s Craftsy class is fantastic for anyone looking to sew their own jeans. She breaks down each step in detail, from fitting to finishing techniques, making the process approachable.

• Johanna Lundström’s Sewing Jeans Book and YouTube Channel, Last Stitch: Johanna’s book ‘Sewing Jeans’ is another great resource. Her methodical approach and attention to detail are invaluable, and her YouTube channel is filled with helpful tutorials that cover everything from pattern adjustments to topstitching tips.

 Books and Resources

Virtual Online Jeans-Making Classes: 

For those eager to learn jeans-making, there are various virtual and in-person classes that provide step-by-step guidance, expert tips, and personalized feedback. Whether you prefer the flexibility of an online class or the hands-on experience of an in-person workshop, these options cater to different learning styles and levels.

In-Person Jeans-Making Workshops: 

These courses and workshops offer a range of options for sewists looking to improve their jeans-making skills, from virtual flexibility to immersive in-person learning experiences. 

Denim is such a rewarding fabric to work with, and I hope these tips, tricks, and project ideas inspire you to try sewing with denim in your own handmade wardrobe. If you enjoyed this post, please subscribe to Sew Pomona for more sewing and style content! Until next time, Happy Sewing!