Hey guys! I’m back today with a super fun make- these 1940’s Haslam PJ’s with Embroidered Patch Pockets! These are a very wearable muslin made up in some French Twill I naturally dyed with Sappanwood Sawdust. I wanted to make a practice set before sewing up my fancy pj’s in a blue gingham check fabric. I figured while I was at it I might as well make them a bit extra and added my own embroidery pattern with these patch pockets from my Beginner Embroidery Pockets Collection (which you can buy in my Etsy shop). I did change out the embroidery floss colors to match – all of my patterns come with suggested floss colors but they’re easily swapped out.
I dyed my twill fabric after Christmas and it was a vibrant shade of pink out of the dye bath. Of course it lightened considerably after washing and drying. I had a few spots that didn’t take the dye as well, but overall my results were nice and even. The color isn’t my favorite but perfectly fine for pajamas. The color shown is pretty accurate. I am planning on over-dyeing this with indigo in the spring when I have a bit more time. I chose a vibrant grey blue, a silver grey, a garnet and medium blue for my embroidery floss and cream pearlescent buttons to coordinate.
My first muslin needed a lot of work after drafting the top. I went back and redrafted the blouse off my sloper and used my Patternmaking Book (Helen Armstrong) to draft the over bust side darts. The instructions for the blouse draft were very light on instructions for the gathers- I definitely couldn’t have drafted them correctly off the design as shown. I also narrowed my sleeve and lowered the sleeve head. I also removed the sleeve pleats and went with gathers. I’ll use the pleats on my next set as the material is a bit lighter. I did goof up on this muslin- I totally forgot to add seam allowance! I don’t know what I was thinking. So these all have very narrow Seam allowances (maybe 1/4″) and I finished all the seams with serging prior to construction. I also redrafted the collar using my shawl collar draft which looks quite a bit nicer than the draft given. These are pretty much my own draft at this point- I really just used the illustrations to guide my design.
My original Haslam PJ pant draft when I muslined it up looked ridiculous. They were super baggy and low in the crotch. Maybe that’s how they made pj pants back then- but they looked horrible. I redrafted the pant off my pant sloper fixing the crotch curves and kept the rest of the pant design. I’m really happy with these bottoms now that they’re re-drafted. They have a simple elasticized waistband but are nice and trim and fit to a T! I’ll be using this draft quite a bit.
I used a railroad denim as my facing for the blouse, sleeve hems and pant hems. It gave a bit more stability to collar and meant I didn’t need any interfacing.
I’m so happy with how this turned out. It’s super cute and really surprisingly comfortable. Can’t wait to make this up again now that the pattern is good to go. My next one will be even better!
All the Details
Sampler Embroidery PDF Pattern (shown in alternate colorway)
Our very popular Sappanwood, also called East Indian redwood and Eastern Brazilwood is now available in an extract form. This means no simmering, steeping and straining dyestuff to achieve beautiful colors. The dye yield is a beautiful deep purple on wool and silk.
Sappanwood extract is native to SE Asia and India and is considered one of the “exotic” red wood dyes that produces wonderful red, lavender and purple shades. It is similar in color to the endangered Brazilwood, but this dye plant is easily propagated and not considered endangered or threatened. People traded it along the Silk Road and medieval dyers often used it. It was renowned as a medicinal herb as well as a brilliant color. When used from 5-10% wof, the color is a rich purple on wool. You can reuse the dyebath until exhausted, creating lighter shades.
Lightfastness with this dye is similar to logwood: not particularly lightfast, but washfast. Sappanwood extract is blended with a small amount of gall nut tannin to help with lightfastness.
Sold in 50 and 100 gram packages. 100 grams will dye up to 1000 g (2.2 lbs) a medium shade with color leftover for exhaust dye baths or pigment making.
Botanical Colors
Haslam Book of Draftings for Lingerie No. 7
This is an E-book version of the 1940s Haslam System of Dresscutting Illustrated Book of lingerie Draftings – No. 7. The booklet is 19 pages with over 30 different designs.
This booklet features several types of robes, housecoats, slips, nightgowns, teddies, brassiere and tap panties, as well as bed jackets, pajamas, maternity clothing, skirts, blouses and more. The best feature of this particular book is that it features both menswear (shirts and slacks) and a ladies’ trouser pattern as well!
Mrs. Depew
This fabric is combed cotton that is micro sanded for a luxurious feel. The end use for this fabric includes general apparel such as pants, shorts, skirts, and shirts.
Width: 59/60″ Wide
Content: 100% Organic GOTS Certified Cotton
Weight: 4.5 oz Weight
Care: Preshrunk 5% maximum
Made In: India
Organic Cotton Plus
Here are some detail shots so you can see the interior facings and finishings:
Next week our home is being fumigated- we live in attached townhomes so when when unit gets tented they all do! We’ll be traveling with a lizard, a chiweenie and most of our food so I needed someplace close-by. The timing isn’t ideal- right after the holidays- but we’re going to make the best of it and treat it like a mini vacay. We’re staying nearby at an Extended Stay Hotel (since I still have to get the kids to school and Vic has to go in to work) but I’m going to use my time wisely- resampling all my embroidery designs. I want to up my product photography so I’m going to restitch my samples before rephotographing everything… to hopefully boost sales.
We’ve spent the past two weekends beachside which has done wonders for my mood! Plus I’m doing my monthly challenge- 30 Days of Yoga-MOVE with Adrienne. I love how this resets and refocuses me every year. This year is especially challenging now that I’m almost fully recovered. I’m so proud of how far I’ve come!
Back soon with some Embroidery Tutorials AND some new makes. I made a fab knit dress for New Years which I can’t wait to show off!
And if you haven’t been over to my Etsy Shop or new YouTube Channel– Please head over to check them out. You can always view all those links my going to my homepage and clicking through to my SP Embroidery Page in the Header.
Happy Sewing!
