Madeira Style One Seam Blouse

I’m back today with another of my lace insertion projects, this time a “madeira style” applique done on the machine with a ladder stitch. If you missed it you can go back and read my earlier post on lace insertion here. This make used the same base pattern as my last post, my Entredeux Top, without the added style lines. I really love this pattern I drafted and you’ll be seeing more of it on the blog. It had a v-neck, wide facings that are sewn on the interior and then turned to the outside, a large french dart as well as a nice deep hem. It only has one seam at Center Front which gives me the option to leave the front bottom open which makes this so comfortable as well a s a bit more slimming for a boxy tank.

The top stitch shown in green is the decorative Ladder stitch used in this project.

The facings (neck and armhole) and hem are all stitched down with a decorative ladder stitch in the same color thread as the batiste. It leaves behind small holes that add a lace like quality to the fabric and adds a beautiful finishing detail. I used a larger microtex needle to make that a bit more prominent. You could really use any decorative stitch and get a similar effect. It’s especially nice on very simple designs like this one.

All the Details:

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Batiste-60″ Natural

A balanced plain weave fabric often used for handkerchiefs, lingerie, liner for high quality garments. The weight, smooth feel, and stable construction makes it very versatile material. 

  • Made In: India
  • Weight: 2.5 oz/sq yd
  • Width: 59-60″ inches
  • Content: Control Union (SKAL) 100% GOTS Certified OEKO-TEX standard 100 Certified Eco Friendly and Sustainable. Pre-shrunk to 3-5%.

Handwoven-40″- Hemp in Moss Green (available in 6 colors)

Handwoven 100% hemp fabrics in vibrant colors all crafted by a fantastic team of women from the Himalayas!

Please Note: These are handwoven, custom batch fabrics and they may have some inconsistencies with the weave structure (think of it as an added special touch!).

Hemp fabric rapidly absorbs moisture, which accounts for its coolness and comfort when used for apparel. It is also one of the only fabrics which are stronger wet than dry, so it does not become tender through washing.

  • Made In: Nepal
  • Width: 40 inches
  • Weight: 4.5 oz.
  • Content: 100% Hemp 
Self Drafted One Seam Blouse

  • French Dart
  • V-Neck
  • 3″ Hem
  • 2.5″ Facings turned to outside
  • Wide Armhole
  • Sewn up CF with 4.5″ Gap at Bottom
  • Ladder Stitch

  • I really love the extra wide armhole I drafted. In the summer I prefer a very loose fitting top that won’t end up with sweat stains. A lower armhole really does the trick. I’m wearing my madeira top here with my Green Handwoven Hemp capri’s. I made these as a muslin a few months ago to try out this new fabric. I love this handwoven textile, The weave has a bit of texture and color variation that is really subtle but beautiful. I’m planning on trying some other colorways. Next time I make pants I’ll line them since the fabric is a bit drapey and needs a bit more structure if it’s going to be long-wearing. This fabric would be lovely for a skirt or dress.

    I just edited a large batch of photos so I have a bunch of projects to share in the next few weeks!

    The kids start back to school this week so I’ll have lots of time to work on my business plans. Planning on getting all my licensing in place and business accounts set up while they’re at school. Right now I’m taking an Adobe Illustrator course on Creative Live so I can digitize my embroidery patterns. I use the rest of the Adobe suite regularly but hadn’t done much with illustrator.

    I’ve also been going outside to sketch with my daughter every night now that it’s cooling down a bit which has been so lovely. It’s nice to get back into a daily sketching habit which I haven’t done in quite a few years. Luckily it’s like riding a bike and it’s quickly coming back to me. It feels like I’m going back to my art school roots! I’m really excited to bring together all of my skills for this new venture. I’ve been doing embroidery since I was a teenager but hadn’t used it much in my sewing practice until now. Can’t wait to share those projects soon!

    5 thoughts on “Madeira Style One Seam Blouse”

    1. Hi Rebecca, you are not using the right machine stitch for the vintage Madeira applique. It would be the double blanket stitch, 2L 2W, with thin cotton thread (Aurifil orange spool), embroidery bobbinthread or the same thin thread in the bobbin, loser upper tension to pull the upper thread to the back, just like for machine embroidery. Pity I can’t put a picture here. The result is lovely, it looks just like the Parisian stitch / pin stitch by hand. The blouse is beautiful. Carmen in the Netherlands

      1. Thanks for the suggestion Carmen! My machine unfortunately doesn’t have that stitch which is why I used the decorative stitch.

        1. Pity. You should reconsider buying a new one. You do not need many stitches for vintage sewing, but this stitch is a must. Anyhow, you should try the setting 2 L 2 W

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