Rouleau Edged Top

One of my goals for the year has been to up my repertoire of sewing techniques and this rouleau edged top is the result!  I saw the cover for the Threads Feb/March 2015 Issue (#177) and was hooked. The bodice and hems utilize a rouleau technique of hand stitched bias tubes as edging. The effect is airy and beautiful. And the aqua blue silk used was just stunning! You can see my inspiration on my Pinterest Board for this look below:

For my blouse I wanted to incorporate some of those same techniques, as well as the color, but in a simpler silhouette.   I dyed my yardage, a beautiful hemp silk mix from Organic Cottons Plus  using the Saxon Blue dye in the Aquarelle Dye Kit from Botanical Colors. This fabric has a beautiful texture and sheen but is a bit sturdier and more practical for everyday wear with the hemp added in.   Check out my full dye post here.

Construction:

The blouse itself is self drafted using on my Bodice Sloper from the same named Suzy Furrer Craftsy Course. To draft this blouse I first removed my shoulder and sleeve darts widening my bust dart and simply left the waist darts unsewn which added some ease into the body.  The top was drafted to end 3″ below my waist.  I then altered my neckline to allow space for the finished rouleau tubes.  I measured out all my bias tubes to 3/8″ and left the same amount of space between tubes for stitching using aqua silk embroidery sewing thread doubled.  Next time I’ll use a true 3-5 strand embroidery thread.  This blouse was my trial run with this technique so it’s not perfect.  I originally thought I’d need a button closure/zipper for the back so I made a seam there which later turned out to be unnecessary.  I also cut two layers of the fabric for this blouse to keep the transparency down. I used french seams and designed small vents on each side of the blouse at the hem and used a decorative stitch on my sewing machine to finish.

One of my favorite things about Threads is their digital issues.  I have an App on my Surface which keeps all my past issue at my fingertips.  I had my issue open to this technique while I constructed my bias tubes and could easily switch to the website for more details.  You can see the web tutorial here!

Until it was 100% complete I wasn’t quite sure I’d like it.  I’m thrilled with this blouse!  Plus it completes my second look from my wardrobe sewing plans! I’m wearing this new blouse with my Holly Pants to complete the look. It came out almost exactly as I envisioned it in my original sketch below.  Plus it feels really good to have two complete looks finished!  (Look 1 was my Holly Hawthorn Dress)

This is one of my last summer makes for the year, though I’ll get to wear this for a few more months.  It’s elegant but comfortable.  I realized after making this that I tend to be drawn to pieces like this that are really a little bit too elegant for my lifestyle as a SAHM.  I really need some more practical everyday clothes.  I’ll be focusing my next few makes on more casual wear.  Oops!  I spoke to soon- Halloween is coming so I’ll be sewing something ridiculously over the top- stay tuned!